(From the archives, first published in 2006.)
The world has become fascinated with today’s celebrity chefs who boast top culinary educations and own mega-popular restaurants. Two quieter culinary trends, however, are focusing on just the opposite. A growing number of “underground restaurants” and “wandering supperclubs,” held anywhere from crowded living rooms or two-car garages, to public spaces like bars and art galleries, are popping up in urban centers across America. These fringe eateries allow budding chefs and would-be restaurateurs to gain notoriety and to jumpstart their culinary careers.